Bvlgari

Sotirio Bulgari opened the first shop in Rome in 1884, and the house leans on that Roman background rather than the plain solitaire. B.zero1 takes its form from Roman architecture and pure geometry, a banded ring that can carry demi pave diamond edges. Serpenti runs on the snake motif the house traces to Greek and Roman myth, and the Serpenti Viper appears with full pave diamonds. Both lines turn up on the bridal side.

The Zurich boutique is at Bahnhofstrasse 25, which gives the street a more sculptural, geometric option among the white-diamond classics. Worth seeing if a ring with a clear design code appeals more than a single stone on a band.